The apartment directly above me is being renovated from top to bottom. Everything is being ripped out, drilled, and reinstalled. This means a daily onslaught of unbearable banging, shouting and thudding, which chases me out of my own apartment. I need a vacation! Unfortunately, much as I may long to visit the French Riviera (or any foreign destination) a trip out of the country is not an option for me right now.
Yesterday, the farthest I could travel was Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I was planning to take a stroll around McCarren Park when I caught sight of Lokal, a small Mediterranean restaurant on the park's perimeter. As I walked closer, the soft sounds of bossa nova wafted into my ears. Stained-glass French doors opened out onto the street, and I could see couples relaxing on striped blue banquettes. Sighing, I entered and sat down. The tables were decorated with shells and blue sand. I could almost imagine that I was on some kind of exotic vacation, although the cross breezes originated not from the sea but from the traffic on Nassau and Lorimer.
Lokal's menu offers plenty of classic spa selections, if you'd like to share in this fantasy of staying at some exotic resort. Caesar salads, grilled vegetable plates and penne with shrimp will entice the calorie-conscious diner (although "Lokal" is not a pun on '"lo-cal"). I ordered some unsweetened iced tea and a tuna burger. Although the beef burgers looked much plumper and more substantial, there was no filler in my choice - the burger was all chunks of seared tuna. The puffy brioche bun was nicely smeared with wasabi mayo, and a good portion of rosemary-sprinkled shoestrings was included. (For those who want something larger for lunch, there are meatball or beef casseroles.) At dinner, the menu expands to offer roasted free-range chicken and grilled NY steak.
I finished my last French fry to the strains of "How Insensitive." Although this song might be particularly apt for the people working on the apartment above me, at least I can temporarily escape their cacophony at Lokal.
Lokal Mediterranean Bistro: 905 Lorimer St., Brooklyn, (718) 384-6777.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Mia Dona
My companion and I had introduced a couple to Fiorini, and they instantly fell in love with the restaurant. So when they got engaged, we thought we'd take them there to celebrate (they love the risotto). How disappointed I was to find that Fiorini is closed on Sundays!
Fortunately, Mia Dona was open tonight. And since it was Memorial Day weekend, it was easy to get a table. I really enjoyed my light and healthful meal at this contemporary Italian restaurant, and our friends actually preferred Mia Dona's desserts to those of the more traditional Fiorini.
While we munched on fragrant roasted heads of garlic and warm tomato focaccia sprinkled with fennel seeds, we deliberated over the appetizers. (It was nice that the bread was served before we ordered, as we were so hungry we could barely make a decision.) I ended up with a delicious goat cheese ravioli in brodo; the clear broth was light and smoky with a tinge of rosemary, and its four stuffed pasta pockets lay atop a tumble of enoki mushrooms and peas. The grilled octopus appetizer was marvelously tender and featured a triple kick of black pepper, hot peppers and red pepper aioli.
Although my grilled branzino with arugula and tiny melted strips of truffled pecorino was perfectly good, I wish I had ordered my friend's choice: ricotta gnudi in truffled butter and sage. The rich dish had just the right touch of speck. Cavatelli in a tomato sauce with smoked bufala mozzarella and basil satisfied the self-proclaimed "sauce snob" in our group, and my companion ate up a rather small portion of olive oil-poached cod accompanied by clams and broccoli rabe. The fish had a nice meaty texture and benefited from a sundried tomato pesto. We also split a side of dilled beets.
Next we had some French press coffee and, of course, a celebratory dessert. The gianduja semifreddo stole the show; it arrived looking like some kind of super-decadent multi-layered nut-topped brownie. A chocolate cake bottom was the foundation for a layer of hazelnut cream and lots of cold chocolatey goodness. Other choices were blackberry sorbet, maple panna cotta with crunchy sugared walnuts, and a buttery-crusted pear cranberry crostata. But that semifreddo... it was truly an experience to remember! It was a sweet omen for our friends' union.
Mia Dona: 206 East 58th St., (212) 750-8170.
Fortunately, Mia Dona was open tonight. And since it was Memorial Day weekend, it was easy to get a table. I really enjoyed my light and healthful meal at this contemporary Italian restaurant, and our friends actually preferred Mia Dona's desserts to those of the more traditional Fiorini.
While we munched on fragrant roasted heads of garlic and warm tomato focaccia sprinkled with fennel seeds, we deliberated over the appetizers. (It was nice that the bread was served before we ordered, as we were so hungry we could barely make a decision.) I ended up with a delicious goat cheese ravioli in brodo; the clear broth was light and smoky with a tinge of rosemary, and its four stuffed pasta pockets lay atop a tumble of enoki mushrooms and peas. The grilled octopus appetizer was marvelously tender and featured a triple kick of black pepper, hot peppers and red pepper aioli.
Although my grilled branzino with arugula and tiny melted strips of truffled pecorino was perfectly good, I wish I had ordered my friend's choice: ricotta gnudi in truffled butter and sage. The rich dish had just the right touch of speck. Cavatelli in a tomato sauce with smoked bufala mozzarella and basil satisfied the self-proclaimed "sauce snob" in our group, and my companion ate up a rather small portion of olive oil-poached cod accompanied by clams and broccoli rabe. The fish had a nice meaty texture and benefited from a sundried tomato pesto. We also split a side of dilled beets.
Next we had some French press coffee and, of course, a celebratory dessert. The gianduja semifreddo stole the show; it arrived looking like some kind of super-decadent multi-layered nut-topped brownie. A chocolate cake bottom was the foundation for a layer of hazelnut cream and lots of cold chocolatey goodness. Other choices were blackberry sorbet, maple panna cotta with crunchy sugared walnuts, and a buttery-crusted pear cranberry crostata. But that semifreddo... it was truly an experience to remember! It was a sweet omen for our friends' union.
Mia Dona: 206 East 58th St., (212) 750-8170.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Brunch at Le Barricou
I wish I lived around the block from Le Barricou, or even better, inside it. The huge space features glass doors which open out onto the sidewalk, exposed-brick walls, a high mustard-stained wood-planked ceiling, a large back room with a piano, and a tiny outdoor patio. There's even an ATM machine back there! I'd have no reason to go outside.
I'd start out each morning with a free basket of freshly baked croissants and pain au chocolat, trucked in each morning from the owner's Bushwick bakery. At any rate, that's how I began my brunch today. A buttery croissant and an excellent Gimme Coffee cappuccino took the edge off my hunger while I decided to order the pissaladiere, then changed my mind and got the eggs Norwegian (at $7.50, a steal). Thickly cut herbed home fries and a romaine and baby spinach salad accompanied two English muffin halves topped with a nice portion of smoked salmon, Hollandaise and poached eggs. The couple next to me ordered the freshly ground grilled burger; the French fries looked tantalizing.
According to the owners, live music and wine-tasting events will soon be held in the newly renovated back room. It's going to be difficult to stay away from this place!
Le Barricou: 533 Grand St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 782-7372. Weekend brunch till 4!
I'd start out each morning with a free basket of freshly baked croissants and pain au chocolat, trucked in each morning from the owner's Bushwick bakery. At any rate, that's how I began my brunch today. A buttery croissant and an excellent Gimme Coffee cappuccino took the edge off my hunger while I decided to order the pissaladiere, then changed my mind and got the eggs Norwegian (at $7.50, a steal). Thickly cut herbed home fries and a romaine and baby spinach salad accompanied two English muffin halves topped with a nice portion of smoked salmon, Hollandaise and poached eggs. The couple next to me ordered the freshly ground grilled burger; the French fries looked tantalizing.
According to the owners, live music and wine-tasting events will soon be held in the newly renovated back room. It's going to be difficult to stay away from this place!
Le Barricou: 533 Grand St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 782-7372. Weekend brunch till 4!
Sunday, May 04, 2008
Kyoya
It's easy to miss this elegant Japanese oasis. After you walk past a graffiti-covered fence near the corner of East 7th St. and 1st Avenue, don't forget to look down; there will be a staircase leading you to an unforgettable experience! You can enjoy Kyoya's delicately prepared cuisine in the semi-private tatami room, in front of Chef Sono at the bar, or at one of the five or so tables in the front. Reservations are definitely recommended.
After being mightily impressed by my meal a week ago, I decided to bring my companion last night. To my amazement, our server remembered that I had ordered the Nagasaki mackerel sashimi the previous week. Almost all the fish is from Japan, except for the tuna (Panama) and the sea urchin (Canada). None is farmed.
The menu is divided into chef's specials, hot and cold appetizers, main courses, and a $150 kaiseki. (Note: this is one of those fancy places, so rice, miso soup, pickles and tea are extra! The Chiran green tea from Ito-En is bracing and wonderfully strong.) There's miso-marinated beef tongue, fried mountain vegetables, sea urchin with tofu skin in a crystal clear broth, eel agedashi-dofu, and Hokkaido male and female smelts. In short, there are a lot of items I've never encountered before, which just makes me want to order them all!
I thought my companion might enjoy the Tousui hotpot appetizer - a ceramic pot filled with a hot soymilk stew with tofu skin and soft chunks of tofu. This mild, sweet dish was livened up with garnishes of scallions, ponzu sauce, daikon radish and citrus salt. Although I'd also ordered the icefish yukari (a mound of tiny, lightly fried fish) on my previous visit, this time I went with ebi shinjo: fried shrimp mousse balls interspersed with crunchy rice crackers, tender shiitakes, baby corn and asparagus in a light broth.
We both ended up having black cod for our main course. My companion ordered the seasonal simmered fish, which was a large piece of cod poached in a sweet soy sauce; I chose the miso-marinated black cod. The three slabs of fish were rich as peanut butter, and they arrived with a small dish of cold edamame.
Although I fondly remembered the matcha-dusted dark chocolate mousse cake with unsweetened whipped cream from my last visit, we were due to meet some friends at Caffe Emilia for dessert. So I'll have to repeat that pleasure another time.
Kyoya: 94 East 7th St., (212) 982-4140).
After being mightily impressed by my meal a week ago, I decided to bring my companion last night. To my amazement, our server remembered that I had ordered the Nagasaki mackerel sashimi the previous week. Almost all the fish is from Japan, except for the tuna (Panama) and the sea urchin (Canada). None is farmed.
The menu is divided into chef's specials, hot and cold appetizers, main courses, and a $150 kaiseki. (Note: this is one of those fancy places, so rice, miso soup, pickles and tea are extra! The Chiran green tea from Ito-En is bracing and wonderfully strong.) There's miso-marinated beef tongue, fried mountain vegetables, sea urchin with tofu skin in a crystal clear broth, eel agedashi-dofu, and Hokkaido male and female smelts. In short, there are a lot of items I've never encountered before, which just makes me want to order them all!
I thought my companion might enjoy the Tousui hotpot appetizer - a ceramic pot filled with a hot soymilk stew with tofu skin and soft chunks of tofu. This mild, sweet dish was livened up with garnishes of scallions, ponzu sauce, daikon radish and citrus salt. Although I'd also ordered the icefish yukari (a mound of tiny, lightly fried fish) on my previous visit, this time I went with ebi shinjo: fried shrimp mousse balls interspersed with crunchy rice crackers, tender shiitakes, baby corn and asparagus in a light broth.
We both ended up having black cod for our main course. My companion ordered the seasonal simmered fish, which was a large piece of cod poached in a sweet soy sauce; I chose the miso-marinated black cod. The three slabs of fish were rich as peanut butter, and they arrived with a small dish of cold edamame.
Although I fondly remembered the matcha-dusted dark chocolate mousse cake with unsweetened whipped cream from my last visit, we were due to meet some friends at Caffe Emilia for dessert. So I'll have to repeat that pleasure another time.
Kyoya: 94 East 7th St., (212) 982-4140).
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